Q1
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Why
isn't the bowl emptying; it won't get rid of solids?
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Q2
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Can
PHII be connected to fresh water supply?
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Q3
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I
have an older model PH toilet (pre-1981); can I still get parts?
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Q4
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The
pump squeaks when I pump it, what's wrong?
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| Q5. |
I've
replaced my piston shaft seal and it still leaks, what is
the problem?
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| Q6. |
I
wish to order a repair kit but don't know which one I need;
how do I identify which one I need?
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| Q7. |
The
square nut in front of the pump body leaks; what is wrong
and how do I fix it?
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| Q8. |
The
intake valve handle is hard to turn; how do I make this easier
to rotate?
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| Q9. |
How
do I winterize my PHII marine toilet?
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| Q10. |
No
water stands in the bowl, why not?
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Why
isn't
the bowl emptying; it won't get rid of solids?
Usually
it can be attributed to either the 1228CW flapper valve or
C253 joker valve.
In
some instances it may have debris caught in the flapper valve,
or in the joker valve, which may be displaced
by continued pumping of the head. Then remove the discharge
fitting at the rear of the pump (1222AW) and remove and clean
the joker valve and reassemble.
If
that doesn't work, do the same with the flapper valve (1228CW).
If neither works,
replace
both parts.
In
some installations it we have found that a small amount of
back pressure will improve the operation
of
the toilet.
This is accomplished by adding a vented loop in the discharge
line, approximately the height of the toilet bowl.
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Can
PHII be connected to fresh water supply?
To
a non pressurized dedicated source to prevent reverse contamination.
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|
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I
have an older model PH toilet (pre-1981); can I still get
parts?
Some
parts remain available but we recommend that the pump assembly
be upgraded to the newer PHIIPUMP Current handle socket, fulcrum
links, yoke, clevis pins, base, flapper, joker, bowl and seat
are all interchangeable with the older series; gearboxes are
not - Customer Service should be consulted when upgrading old
PHE models to the newer PHEII models.
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| A4 |
The
pump squeaks when I pump it, what's wrong?
This
was most common on the PHII/PHEII units that were manufactured
before the cartridge seal pump series (1200C).
In
the early electric drive units, the drive arm squeaked against
the pump
housing regardless of how much grease was applied. The cure
is to convert to the 1116BW drive arm kit - the material
has been changed in the drive arm to one that is compatible
with
the material of the pump housing. In manual units, the most
common source for squeaking is the bushing area just beneath
the seal. As the piston rod pumps up and down, the rod squeaks
against the bushing area. The cure for this is to put SuperLube
on the piston shaft; we also recommend a TWK.
Another
area for squeaking is when the bushing area wears and the corners
of the piston scrape against the cylinder
bore. Sometimes vegetable oil put into
the toilet bowl will stop the squeak temporarily.
For
a permanent cure, the pump housing must be updated to the 1200CW.
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| A5 |
I've
replaced my piston shaft seal and it still leaks, what is the
problem?
Usually
the problem is a worn bushing area in the 1200B pump housing,
which would necessitate replacing the pump housing with a 1200CW.
A
possible lesser problem would be that the replacement seal
wasn't installed correctly. It is installed with the flat side
up, delrin washer on top of it and snap ring installed with
curved surface down. Using the manual handle to install the
snap ring, press it until it just contacts
the white delrin washer, then stop. Do not compress it as far as it will
go.
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| A6 |
I
wish to order a repair kit but don't know which one I need;
how do I identify which one I need?
Units
manufactured prior to 1981 are identified by a chromed shutoff
valve handle on the front of the toilet pump; this is the PH
series and uses repair kit #PHRK.
Units
manufactured 1981 - June, 1992 are identified by a plastic
on-off knob at the front of the toilet pump and a pump shaft
seal held in place
by a star washer-type snap ring. This
is the original PHII series and uses repair kit #PHRKII.
The
current series (6/92 - present) is identified by a cartridge-type
pump shaft seal with
a hex nut at the top of the pump housing where the piston
shaft goes through. This
unit uses repair kit #PHRKIIC.
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| A7 |
The
square nut in front of the pump body leaks; what is wrong and
how do I fix it?
The
square nut in front of the pump body is an air inlet valve
that allows air into the top of the pump cylinder during dry
flush operation to stop any Vacuum kick. Inside the square
fitting is a check valve.
In
units manufactured between 1981 and March, 1992, a small black
joker valve was used; in units
manufactured after March 1992; a more advanced valve is used.
In
either case, remove the fitting and rinse it with warm, clear
water.
Reassemble. If it still leaks, replace it (part # 1203W).
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| A8 |
The
intake valve handle is hard to turn; how do I make this easier
to rotate?
Remove
the round handle, unscrew the packing nut (1204B) and remove
the intake valve body (1203B). Grease the three "O" rings
with SuperLube or other Teflon based grease. Reassemble, referring
to correct alignment of valve in the PHII owner's manual.
If it continues being difficult to turn, replace the intake
valve body (1203B).
Note:
older PHII series valve handles didn't have the two "wings" on
the handle to aid in turning it. Customer may wish to purchase
a new handle (1209BW).
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| A9 |
How
do I winterize my PH II marine toilet?
Refer
to winterizing instructions in owner's manual.
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| A10 |
No
water stands in the bowl, why not?
Raritan
toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless
a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top
of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl.
The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush.
See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications
and loop height limitations.
Note:
Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety
reasons (see installation manual for further details)
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