FAQ


Atlantes

1. What is Vortex-Vac technology?

There are several ways to create a vacuum in a toilet. A traditional vacuum toilet utilizes a stored vacuum created by a positive displacement pump. Such systems require vacuum tanks and external pumps and controls.

Raritan's Vortex-Vac creates its vacuum by using the vortex pump mounted inside the bowl. This creates an on-demand instantaneous vacuum and eliminates the need for external vacuum pumps, tanks, foot pedal and other mechanical components that can fail. This results in a system that is easier to install and maintain with significant cost savings.

Our Vortex-Vac flushing technology is also the quietest and most efficient in its class. Its low water usage also extends the useful capacity of your holding tank.

2. What is the difference in the various controls offered for Atlantes Vortex-Vac?

Smart Handle- This is the most popular control for this head and was designed to match flushing efficiency with low water usage. Simply pull the handle forward for one second and release. An automatic sequence will flush the toilet. Push and hold the handle backwards and the bowl will empty. The flush sequence is fully programmable.

A convenient control box is included for simple wiring. This controls also easily interfaces with our patented Sea Fresh option or any of our TYPE I waste treatment systems.

Momentary Flush Handle- This model is an alternative to our automatic Smart Handle control. Pull and hold the handle forward to add water and push and hold to empty. The flush is NOT automatic and will only activate as long as the handle is held.

Smart Toilet Control: This is our most popular wall mounted control. This fully programmable control was designed to match flushing efficiency with low water usage. Our Smart Toilet Control consists of 4 buttons: Normal, Water Saver, Fill and Empty. The Normal and Water Saver buttons are automatic and will start a sequential flush cycle when activated. The Fill and Empty buttons are momentary and function for as long as the button is held. This control can also be integrated with a Holding Tank Full sensor to warn the user when their holding tank is full.

A convenient control box is included for simple wiring. This controls also easily interfaces with our patented Sea Fresh option or any of our TYPE I waste treatment systems.

3. The toilet flushes poorly or not at all.

The most common cause to poor discharge is a clogged sanitation line. We recommend isolating the toilet from the plumbing system by connecting a separate piece of hose to the toilet discharge and flushing into a bucket. If the toilet flushes fine, you either have an obstruction in the sanitation line, Y-valve, vented loop, vent line or sea cock. If the toilet continues to perform poorly, refer to the owners guide for further troubleshooting.

4. Dirty water comes back in the bowl after a flush.

The most common cause of back flow is Joker Valve wear. Replacement Joker valve for all Atlantes except the Vortex-Vac is part# C254. Vortex-Vac models use two of part# 221135 (It is recommended both be replaced at the same time).

5. No water remains in the bowl after the cycle, why not?

Raritan toilets are not designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Due to plumbing variations, the loop inside the Atlantes Vortex-Vac may not retain water and an external vented loop may be required.

If a vented loop is installed (inside or otherwise), check for clogged vent. A clogged vent will cause water to siphon out of the bowl giving the empty bowl appearance.

6. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common source of odor is almost never associated with the toilet itself. Odor is typically caused by one of three factors and can be distinguished by the smell itself (rotten egg versus waste):

Raw water: Toilets that use raw water often draw in varying forms of marine life and vegetation which become trapped in the bowl rim or lay stagnant in the incoming feed line. As these items decay, the result is sulfurous malodor – also known as the "rotten egg smell". One common solution, albeit the most expensive, is to convert the toilet to utilize your on-board pressurized fresh water supply. Raritan offers both complete new fresh water flushing toilets as well as conversion kits for existing raw water flushing heads. If converting is not practical, then we recommend the following:

  • Install and regularly maintain a good quality in-line strainer. We supply a version that is made of a clear, durable polycarbonate that features a convenient mounting flange. Part# is 163000.
  • Thoroughly clean the bowl rim and clean/replace all existing supply lines to the toilet.
  • Finally, we attack the odor from its source. We recommend installing our Knock Out odors kit (part# KO2). This product will introduce a bacteria into the intake water line that will prevent the growth of the bacteria that cause the rotten egg smell. It will not only eliminate the growth of bad bacteria but it will also clean the head as well.

Holding Tank- If the odor you are experiencing smells more like waste rather than rotten eggs, the odor is likely coming from your holding tank. You will find several items on the market that will work to cover up this odor (e.g. formaldehyde based chemicals, vent filters, etc…). Raritan recommends our Kills Odor product (K.O.) which works to eliminate the odor at its source. K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digests liquids, solid waste and paper, totally emulsifying them so there’s no need to add "tissue digesters" or other "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. neutralize the odor-causing elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an odor-free product. Four ounces per 25 gallons of capacity is all you need, and there’s seldom any need to add K.O. between pump-outs; or need to pump out until the tank is full, making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.

Sanitation Hose-Poor quality and/or improperly routed sanitation hose will eventually permeate your sanitation hose. The only solution for permeated hose is replacement. If you suspect your hose may be permeated, wet a rag as hot as possible and wrap it around the suspect hose. After it cools, remove and smell the rag. If the odor has transferred to the rag, the hose is permeated and replacement is necessary. Raritan offers our Saniflex sanitation line which is made with a butyl rubber to resist permeation and is backed with a 5 year warranty. Its flexibility is unmatched in the market place and heating of the hose to install fittings is not necessary. Part number is SFH for 1.5" and SFH1 for 1" I.D. hose.

Note: it is always recommended to route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90 degree fittings to make bends if needed. Avoid any dips and sags in the lines so waste cannot settle and collect and cause premature failure of your sanitation line. Any loops in the hose must also be properly vented.

7. What can I use to clean my toilet:

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

8. How do I winterize my toilet?

Refer to detail winterizing instructions in owner's manual.

9. What discharge hose size do you recommend?

Our toilets are designed to perform well using either 1" or 1 ½" I.D. hose. We do however suggest 1 1/2" hose be used in salt water applications due to calcium deposition. A smaller diameter hose will obstruct more quickly in these conditions and adversely affect the performance of your toilet.

10. Do I need to cut the discharge fitting on my Vortex-Vac toilet?

No. The discharge fitting was designed to accept both 1" and 1 ½" I.D. discharge hoses. Modification for 1 ½" installations is not necessary and will not adversely affect performance.

11. The discharge fitting points downwards. Can I plumb this to go through the wall rather than down through the floor?

Yes. We offer two kits to redirect the discharge hose 90 degrees out the back. Part #221147 is for 1 ½" I.D. hose and 221148 is for 1" I.D. hose.

12. How do I identify my Atlantes model series?

If your handle is chrome plated zinc and points upwards, your model is our A- series.

If your handle is plastic or the vertically mounted wall switch is blue and says "Atlantes", your model is A5/A6

If your handle is stainless steel and points downwards, or your vertically mounted wall switch is blue and says "Toilet Flush Control", your model is A7/A8.

If your handle is stainless steel and points downwards or the wall panel mounts horizontally, your model is the AV model. Note: most models flush in sequence rather than continuous.

13. Can I upgrade older model Atlantes controls to latest controls?

Following is the list of upgrade kits available for older model Atlantes:
A model _no upgrade available
A5/A6 model – upgrade to wall mount Smart Toilet Control Part# STCA6RFK

14. What kind of holding tank sensors can be used with the Atlantes Vortex Vac models?

Raritan manufactures two holding tank full tank sensors that can directly interface with this toilet:
1. Float type: This sensor can be installed in your tank cap. Part # STCFL
2. SensaTank: This sensor can be glued to the external side of a plastic or fiberglass tank less than 3/8" thick. Part# STCTSA

15. My A5 Series Atlantes has water still coming into the bowl for a few seconds after the discharge pump has shut off. Too much water remains in the bowl. What can I do?

Check jumper setting on control board. Jumper J1 on the Atlantes control board must be moved to position B. This will cause both pumps to stop at the same time.

16. Can a tank monitor made by a different company be used with the Atlantes Vortex Vac models?

Raritan has two kind of full tank sensor for easy installation. Interfacing other sensor although possible but is not recommended as Raritan control boards are designed to work with Raritan sensors.

17 What is the amp rating on part AM06012, continuous duty solenoid?

The amp rating for the contacts is 80 amp and the coil is 1 amp.

Raritan Organics/Non-Organics

1. How do you winterize a holding tank containing KO?

Adding antifreeze to holding tank that has K.O. will not have any adverse effect except K.O. is not effective with antifreeze. While re-commissioning in spring, make sure to dilute all contents of holding tank and pump out so that antifreeze is removed before starting the use of K.O.

2. Is C.H. Cleans Hoses able to be used in aluminum holding tanks?

Yes, C.H. is safe to use on systems with Aluminum tank

3. Will the ElectroScan/PuraSanEX processed waste have from holding tank treated with K.O. without any adverse reaction?

Yes electroscan and Purasan both have no adverse reaction to K.O. in the system.

4. How does KO work?

K.O. has spores that comes alive when in contact with organic matter (such as sewage). Bacteria multiply in aerobic environment and clean up sewage producing carbon di oxide which is odor less. They are bio-system very effective in removing source of odors.

5. Does KO have shelf life?

KO works in half lives. When it is first produced, it will be 100% effective for one year. After two years is be half as effective and so on. It is recommend to rotate not store for long periods of time to maximize product benefits.


Compact/Compact II

1. What improvements does the Compact II have over the older Compact?

The major improvement is that the intake hose connects at the rear of the pump rather than the front, for a cleaner, more streamlined appearance. The Compact II has a "T" shaped handle for a better grip, and the Compact II pump has slightly more capacity than on the Compact.

2. How do I winterize my Compact or Compact II head?

Refer to winterizing instructions in owner's manual.

3. No water stands in the bowl, why not?

Raritan toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Note: Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety reasons (see installation manual for further detail).


Crown Head

1. How much power does the Crown Head use?

The current Crown Head centrifugal discharge series draws 36 amps @12 VDC, 20 amps @24 VDC, 15 amps @32 VDC.

Note that normal operation is only 8-15 seconds per flush.

2. Is the centrifugal discharge series Crown Head quieter than earlier units?

Yes. The permanent magnet models of the centrifugal discharge series are quieter than previous units that utilize wound field motors. Also both the intake and the discharge pump were upgraded to operate at a lower sound level while improving the performance and using less power.

3. Can an older model Standard Crown Head be used with Lectra/San?

No, it is not recommended, however you may exchange a standard model for a factory remanufactured CD-Series Crown Head lower unit.

4. Is the Crown Head available with a bigger bowl and seat?

The Crown Head is available with two bowl and seat sizes:

1) Standard marine/RV size, identified by a round bowl.
2) Hi-boy (household size), identified by an oval bowl.

The standard bowl and seat may be upgraded to the Hi-boy size, contact Raritan Technical Support for details. Bowls are interchangeable.

5. Crown Head suddenly will not pump out solids or paper. What's wrong?

In units manufactured after late 1985, problem is usually CH120 discharge pump wall. Replacing it should restore the head to proper operation. Older, pre-late 1985 units (usually deep draft models) were very voltage-sensitive. If batteries aren't in excellent condition, or if corrosion exists at wire joints and terminals - voltage drop may cause head to run slow and not discharge properly. Also, CH119D1 discharge impeller may require replacement.

6. How do I install a replacement discharge pump wall (CH120)? Do you have instructions? It is too big to fit inside the housing.

Instructions are available, literature #L290. Contact Customer Service. CH120 snaps into a groove behind the macerating teeth inside the housing. Bend it, stuff it in, and then snap into position.

7. My Crown Head won't bring in enough water to flush. What's wrong?

1.) Be sure intake sea cock is fully open and that through hull fitting is not clogged (barnacles, etc.) and that strainer is clean, then do the following:
2.) Intake check ball may be stuck or have debris caught in it. Remove intake hose and pump plug (CH5VW), and poke eraser end of pencil into the intake nozzle to free up check ball and clean out any debris, reconnect the hose and plug and test.
3.) Inlet pump impeller (G13W) may be bad or have taken "set". Remove and examine it; if the vanes are bent in one direction replace it. Also check inner pump cavity for scoring and indications that pump has run dry. If inside of pump cavity is black and rough, replace pump housing (CH2 or CH2A).

8. My Crown Head is noisy; what do I do about it?

Older standard and deep draft models were very audible due to their design. These can be exchanged for newer Centrifugal Discharge Series models which are quieter.

9. How can I convert my Crown Head to pressurized fresh water flush?

1) Remove hose at rear of head, going from intake pump to bowl elbow. Open intake pump and remove pump impeller. Replace pump cover.

2) Purchase a nominal 1/2" electrically operated solenoid valve (Raritan part #CWPS or equivalent) in the same operating voltage as the Crown Head. Mount the solenoid valve to the bowl elbow, using two short plastic pipe nipples, a short length of 3/4" hose and hose clamps. Connect the two wires from the solenoid valve to the two electrical motor lugs on the Crown Head, so that valve opens when head runs and closes when head stops.

3). Purchase a nominal 1/2" vacuum break (anti-siphon valve), WATTS #288A or equivalent. Loop the pressure water supply line at least 12" higher than the top of the toilet bowl and install the vacuum break at the top of this loop, using plastic pipe nipples and hose clamps. The direction of flow arrows should point toward the head.

4) Purchase a nominal 1/2" shutoff valve, either globe valve or ball valve and install in the water supply line between the water source and the vacuum break, using plastic nipples and hose clamping. This will allow you to regulate the water flow into the bowl, and also to shut off the water for servicing, etc.

10. Water backs up into the deodorant tank, causing it to overflow. What can I do?

Disassemble and clean the in-line check valve (CH37E). Reinstall, being sure the arrow points toward the toilet and not toward the deodorant tank. If problem persists, replace the check valve, again being sure that arrow points to the toilet and not toward the deodorant tank.

11. How do I winterize my Crown Head?

Refer to winterizing instructions in Owner's Manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L91v0116vCrownHeadOM.pdf)

12. No water stands in the bowl, why not?

Raritan toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Note: Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety reasons (see installation manual for further details)

Crown Head II

1. What is the difference between the Crown Head II and the Atlantes?

The Atlantes is an all-ceramic unit with the mechanism contained within the confines of the bowl. The Crown Head II has a molded plastic cover over the macerator and discharge pump at the bottom of the head. Additionally it uses a remote-mounted intake pump or solenoid valve, usually mounted below deck. Both units contain a built in macerator.

2. What is the noise level of the Crown Head II?

The discharge pump and macerator, situated directly beneath the bowl are very quiet, comparable to a home toilet. The intake pump is somewhat noisier but is remotely mounted, usually below deck. Freshwater flush models are virtually noise free. All CHII models are significantly quieter than Crown Head original series.

3. What is the difference between the Crown Head II and the Crown Head?

The major difference between the two is that the intake pump on the rear of the Crown Head has been removed, mounted on its own motor and mounted remotely.

The discharge pump and macerator are the same.

A minor difference is the appearance: The Crown Head II uses a streamlined lower cover or skirt, whereas the Crown Head uses a square lower cover.

The Crown Head has a built-in deodorant siphon system, the Crown Head II does not - it requires the addition of Raritan's optional Toilet Water Kit (TWK) if this feature is desired.

The Crown Head II has available, as an option, a deluxe control system that allows timed flush, momentary flush or dry bowl flush, as desired. The Crown Head may only be configured for momentary or timed flush - no dry bowl flush is available.

4. How do I winterize my Crown Head II?

Refer to winterizing instructions in Owner's Manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L339v0816CHIIvOM.pdf)

5. No water stands in the bowl, why not?

Raritan toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Note: Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety reasons (see installation manual for further details)


Electroscan/Lectrasan

1. Is the Electroscan/LectraSan legal to use?

Yes and No. The Electroscan and LectraSan systems are U.S. Coast Guard certified Type I waste treatment systems that are permitted on uninspected vessels less than 65 feet and may be used in most areas navigable waterways with an in and out tidal flow within the 3 mile limit (9 miles in the Gulf of Mexico). There are areas however that are federally designated No-Discharge Zones (NDZ’s) where its use is not permitted. Please see the EPA’s website for no discharge zones for a state by state listing.

2. How does the Electroscan/LectraSan work?

The Electroscan/LectraSan uses salt water, electricity and a specially designed electrode plate to create a powerful bactericide to disinfect waste. Each time the toilet is flushed, an equal amount of previously treated waste is pushed through the treatment tank and discharged overboard. During this process, the first chamber macerates to reduce particle size and the second chamber mixes to ensure uniform treatment of contents. When first activated, the user has 35 seconds to flush toilet. After that, the electrode is energized for approximately 2 minutes. During this time, the powerful bactericide is generated in both chambers.to disinfect waste.

3. How much salt do I need to add to my Electroscan/LectraSan system?

The Electroscan/LectraSan operates on the premise ocean water salinity (3.5%) is available. This percentage can vary depending on area and tidal changes as well as other factors including age, temperature, wear to name a few. In short, the system will indicate an error if treatment is not adequate. If an error exists, please refer to the troubleshooting guide of the owner’s guide.

4. What type of salt do I add if needed?

We recommend what is commonly referred to as "Solar Salt" or "Water Softener Salt". This type if salt is readily available in pellet form from many local hardware stores. Refer to the owner’s guide for application instructions.

5. Can I use a freshwater flush toilet with this model? If so what do I need?

Yes. You will need one of our salt feed units that will bring your flush water to seawater salinity as seawater. You may also manually add a few ounces of granulated salt to a Raritan toilet bowl before each flush. Do not add salt to non-Raritan toilets without checking with manufacturer.

6. Can I install my Electroscan further than 6 feet from the head?

Yes. Raritan recommends the Electroscan be 6 feet or less from the head. This will insure that the materials that are flushed from the toilet actually make it into the Electroscan and are not residing in the connecting hose between the two, where they can putrefy and cause odor problems. If hose is more than 6 feet, odor free hose such as SaniFlex is recommended.

7. Can I install an Electroscan higher than the toilet?

Yes. To prevent back flow from Electroscan to toilet, a vented loop slightly higher than Electroscan’s highest point is required.

8. Can I use antifreeze to winterize my treatment system?

No. Under no circumstances may antifreeze be used in a Raritan treatment system. We recommend the tank be pumped dry. Refer to the owner’s manual for more information.

9. Do I need to clean or do any maintenance to my Electroscan?

Yes, refer to the owner’s manual for Electroscan clean out and storage procedures.

10. How often do I turn on my treatment system?

The Electroscan (all series) is intended to be operated with each flush of the toilet. Failure to do this will result in eventual clogging and possible damage to the unit.

11. I have 2 heads, one fore and one aft, can I use one Electroscan?

Yes, Electroscan controls are designed for use with two toilets. Distance from toilet discharge to treatment tank on Electroscan should be maximum of 6 feet. If this distance is more than 6 feet we recommend use of our Sani/flex hose to reduce odors as untreated sewage will be sitting in the hose for longer run of hose.

12. Electroscan MC/EC - Can I use the Electroscan with my head?

Probably. The Electroscan system will work with most installed heads that have positive displacement pumps discharging the waste from the head. It will not work with recirculating heads, portable type heads, Jet style and heads with built-in holding tanks. For specific details, contact Raritan Technical Support.

13. Lectra/San EC - My check fuse light is on but the 3 fuses check O.K., what is the problem?

Check available voltage at treatment system while it is running in the second cycle - must be no less than 11.5 VDC. Low voltage will cause the check fuse light to come on. If voltage checks O.K., problem is likely in the control board mounted on the Lectra/San EC treatment unit. Replace control board.

14. Lectra/San EC - My low salt light is always on, why?

Be sure that adequate salt is in the water supplied to the Lectra/San. Check that salt feed system (if used) is filled and operating correctly. Check that electrodes are clean. Check available voltage at treatment system while it is running in the second cycle - must be no less than 11.5 VDC.

15. Can an Electroscan be used with a vacuum toilet?

Yes, for details see application note.

16. How do I winterize my Electroscan?

Refer to winterizing instructions in Owner's Manual. (http://raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/L3400514-EST.pdf)

17. I have your Lectra/San Toilet (head) and need parts.

The Lectra/San is not a toilet (head). The Lectra/ San is a Type I MSD (Waste Treatment System) that the toilet discharges into. To find out what type of toilet you have check how to identify the toilet then refer to your owner’s manual for part information.

18. How long does a typical electrode last?

Life of electrode will reduce due to several factors:

1. Salinity less than sea water salinity reduces life
2. Cold water less than 50 degree F reduces life.
3. Other chemicals in waste system (like toilet cleaners) can form an undesirable coating.
4. Failure to clean electrodes every six months for calcium deposits.

Typically electrode are designed for recreation use (up to 4 people per boat). Raritan warranty electrode for one year.


Fresh Head

1. Can I use fresh head with Sea water?

FRESHHEAD is designed for fresh water inlet flush only to reduce odors. It uses minimum water and also helps solve problems associated with calcium deposits in discharge hoses and eliminates inlet sea cock.

In case of emergency or if pressurized fresh water is not available , sea or fresh water can be added to the bowl manually to pump out waste from bowl. Discharge pump can be used to pump out sea water waste.

2. How do I prevent water filling up in bowl from waste hose when head is not used?

When FRESHHEAD is not in use you can bring flush handle all the way forward and turn lever at the bottom of handle toward front to lock handle. This seals the discharge port so that no back flow from discharge hose can come back to bowl.

3. Flow of water in the bowl rim have reduced how can I increase flow?

If you had good flow previously and flow has reduced, check and clean filter screen inside inlet valve. To remove screen, disconnect inlet fitting at the valve.

4. How much water does the Fresh Head use?

The inlet water is controlled by the user pressing down on the inlet valve lever.

Average consumption is 1 pint (.47L) and ¾ gal (2.8L) for solids.


General Questions

1. I have a Raritan head, what type is it?

Go to the Identify Your Head Page for more information regarding the identification of your hardware.

2. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common reasons for odors are:

Foul marina water being drawn into the toilet bowl from outside. Adding a Raritan K.O.2 Kit to your installation and using Raritan K.O. help keep the odor level down. Raritan toilets using on board pressurized fresh water have no odors.

Improper discharge hose is being used and the hose material has become contaminated resulting odor permeation. Replace the hose with thick walled sanitation hose that resists odor permeation such as Raritan SaniFlex #SFH.

Improper routing of discharge hose. Horizontal runs and dips or valleys where raw sewage may stand must be avoided. Even the best sanitation hose will not last long in these cases. Route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90" fittings to make bends if needed. Loops in the hose must be properly vented.

No water trap in the bottom of the toilet bowl. Adding a vented loop in the discharge hose will allow a stand of water to exist in the section of hose from the toilet to the vented loop. This also ensures that a certain amount of water remains in the bowl after each flush. The height of the loop will determine how much water will remain in the bowl. Sewage odor/gas would have to be pressurized to force it through the water seal created by the addition of the vented loop.

Eel grass, other forms of marine life or vegetation which are drawn into the toilet's flush water may have become trapped in the rim of the bowl. This can produce a sulfurous malodor (i.e.: rotten egg smell) as this matter decays. If this occurs, the bowl must be flushed out under dock side pressure while using a probe inserted into the bowl rim rinsing holes to free any lodged debris. All seawater flush toilets must have an inline strainer installed in the intake hose to prevent this from happening. Fresh water toilets such as Fresh Head or pressurized water electric toilets do not have odors by avoiding sea water.

3. What types of cleaners and deodorizers can I use safely to clean the toilet and your sanitation equipment?

Raritan recommends that only our own products, Raritan C.P. (Clean Potty) be used with our marine toilets and the electroscan system. C.P. bio cleaner helps to break down waste. To clean the bowl, we recommend Raritan's C.P. Do not use harsh cleansers, and other products which may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or any solvent or petroleum based products. These can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

4. No water stands in the bowl, why not?

Raritan toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Note: Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety reasons. See installation manual for further details.

5. I need a new toilet seat and lid but need to know which one to order, how do I tell the difference?

Raise the seat and look at the bowl. If the bowl is round, it is the Standard marine/RV size and you will order part #1238SC. If the bowl is oval shaped, it is our Hi-boy and you would order part #1245SC. Replacement seats for the Atlantes Elongated toilet are part #AL030 (specify color).

6. Where can I get my Raritan product repaired?

See sending products for repair. (https://raritaneng.com/tech-support/faq/#Repair)

7. Can I reduce the discharge to a smaller size?

See owner’s manual section for detailed recommendations.

8. My manual toilet is hard to pump (downward), what's my problem?

Check holding tank vent line for clogs - if the air in the holding tank cannot escape, it will resist the flow of anything coming into the tank. Check lines, fittings, etc. for calcium buildup. Calcium buildup can also occur inside the pump bore, and will require removal. Another possibility is a clog of paper, paper towels, handy-wipes or feminine products in the joker valve (part #s 1224 or C253). Close discharge seacock if used, removes discharge fitting (part #s 1222AW or 1222B) with discharge hose still attached. Joker valve is installed inside the discharge fitting and may be cleaned or replaced when accessed.

TIP: have paper towels, rags, etc., available to absorb water, which will flow from fitting when removed.

9. My toilet overflows with sea water when I run at high speeds? How do I correct this situation?

One of the most common issues relates to the type of scoop on your thru hull. If the scoop is oriented to "cup" the water when the boat is in motion, the water will do as you describe. If you reverse this scoop, it will take care of this problem.

10. Can I use the C254 joker valve instead of the C253 joker valve? (and vice versa)

C253 Joker valve can be used for C254 but C254 joker valve cannot be used for C253

11. What is the difference between ATLANTES and ELEGANCE, which is better and why?

See selecting toilets

12. Can I use antifreeze to winterize my treatment system?

Antifreeze is not recommended for Raritan Treatment system, instead we recommend dry winterization. See owner’s manual for system.

13. Can I upgrade from a push button switch to another control later on vortex vac toilets?

Vortex-Vac series toilets can be upgraded to other controls.

14. What are the differences between Electroscan and Purasan?

Both units may be used in salt water. The Electroscan converts salt water to a powerful bactericide that disinfects waste while the Purasan uses a chlorine type tablet for disinfection.

The Purasan was designed for those in freshwater areas where the continual addition of salt can be cumbersome. In order for the Electroscan to function properly in brackish water, adding salt will be needed. This is generally done using an automatic salt feed system.

15. Do I need to cut the 1" portion of my discharge fitting if using 1 ½" hose? (ME, Atlantes, and SeaEra)

It not necessary to cut the 1" portion of discharge fitting as waste is macerated.

16. How do I clean my head and what cleaning supplies are available when it has a LectraSan or Electroscan in place?

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head and are not compatible with LectraSan or Electroscan

17. How do I convert my current holding tank to a Raritan Hold n’ Treat control?

Hold and treat component system

18. I see that you have printable templates for your toilets. Do you have toilet templates in other formats for builders and designers?

We can provide them will full scale 2D drawings, as well as, many of our products in 3D format.


Icer-ette

1. Are old model and new Icemaker 87 model are same dimensions?

All 87 model Icer-ette are direct replacement for older model Icemaker. 83 and 85 and 87 series (tall) are 14" wide, 24" high and 14 1/2" deep. The door protrudes out an additional 2" from the body of the cabinet for a total depth of 16 1/2." 82, 82 and 84 series (short) are 14" wide, 18 3/8" high and 22 1/4" deep. The door protrudes out an additional 2" from the body of the cabinet for a total depth of 24 1/4".

We recommend that an additional 1" be supplied at the rear of all units to facilitate plumbing and electrical connections.

2. How much ice does the Icer-ette produce?

All series Icer-ette produce up to 21 lb. per day and have capacity to store 10 lb. in a removable ice bucket.

3. How much power does the Icer-ette require?

All series Icer-ette have a maximum power requirement of 230 watts running @115 volts A.C. (or optionally, 230 volts A.C.).

4. What type of ice cube does the Icer-ette make and is it clear ice?

Type of ice cube is crescent shaped cubes. The ice is not clear due to minerals in water as this icemaker is no drain icemaker.


Macerator

1. Can I use the Smart Macerator Control with my existing generic macerator pump?

No, the Smart macerator control, is a proprietary control, only intended to operate the Raritan Engineering’s macerator pump.

2. What’s the part number of the repair kit for this product?

53100RK


Managerm

1. Can I mount the system "port to starboard" (sideways)

No, the system must only be mounted "fore to aft", as the disinfectant could be inadvertently diverted to the incoming tank.


Marine Elegance

1. What is a Vortex-Vac technology?

There are several ways to create a vacuum in a toilet. A traditional vacuum toilet utilizes a stored vacuum created by a positive displacement pump. Such systems require vacuum tanks and external pumps and controls.

Raritan’s Vortex-Vac creates its vacuum by using the vortex pump mounted inside the bowl. This creates an on-demand instantaneous vacuum and eliminates the need for external vacuum pumps, tanks, foot pedal and other mechanical components that can fail. This results in a system that is easier to install and maintain with significant cost savings. Our Vortex-Vac flushing technology is also the quietest and most efficient in its class. Its low water usage also extends the useful capacity of your holding tank.

2. What is the difference in the various controls offered for Marine Elegance?

Marine Elegance is supplied with one of the following controls:

Push Button Control: A heavy duty push button switch activates the toilet inlet water and discharge motor simultaneously for as long as the button is held. This switch does NOT provide the ability to fill or wet the bowl before use or discharge or empty the bowl if desired.

Multi-function Momentary Control: The toilet inlet water and discharge motor are controlled separately with two switches. One is used to fill or wet the bowl before use and the other is used to discharge or empty the bowl.

Flushing is momentary and must be held for as long as desired. A convenient control box is included for simple wiring. This controls also easily interfaces with our patented Sea Fresh option or any of our TYPE I waste treatment systems. Smart Toilet Control: This is our most popular toilet control. This fully programmable control was designed to match flushing efficiency with low water usage. Our Smart Toilet Control consists of 4 buttons: Normal, Water Saver, Fill and Empty. The Normal and Water Saver buttons are automatic and will start a sequential flush cycle when activated. The Fill and Empty buttons are momentary and function for as long as the button is held. This control can also be integrated with a Holding Tank Full sensor to warn the user when their holding tank is full.

A convenient control box is included for simple wiring. This controls also easily interfaces with our patented Sea Fresh option or any of our TYPE I waste treatment systems.

3. The toilet flushes poorly or not at all.

The most common cause to poor discharge is a clogged sanitation line. We recommend isolating the toilet from the plumbing system by connecting a separate piece of hose to the toilet discharge and flushing into a bucket. If the toilet flushes fine, you either have an obstruction in the sanitation line, Y-valve, vented loop, vent line or sea cock. If the toilet continues to perform poorly, refer to the owners guide for further troubleshooting.

4. Dirty water comes back in the bowl after a flush.

The most common cause of back flow is Joker Valve wear. Vortex-Vac models use two of part# 221135 (It is recommended both be replaced at the same time).

5. No water stands in the bowl after the cycle, why not?

Raritan toilets are not designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Build in loop inside the Vortex Vac Marine Elegance retains water for most (but not all) installation. Some installation may need external loop.

If a vented loop is installed (inside or otherwise), check for clogged vent. A clogged vent will cause water to siphon out of the bowl.

6. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common source of odor is almost never associated with the toilet itself. Odor is typically caused by one of three factors and can be distinguished by the smell itself (rotten egg versus waste):

Raw water: Toilets that use raw water often draw in varying forms of marine life and vegetation which become trapped in the bowl rim or lay stagnant in the incoming feed line. As these items decay, the result is sulfurous malodor - also known as the "rotten egg smell". One common solution, albeit the most expensive, is to convert the toilet to utilize your on-board pressurized fresh water supply. Raritan offers both complete new fresh water flushing toilets as well as conversion kits for existing raw water flushing heads. If converting is not practical, then we recommend the following:

  • Install and regularly maintain a good quality in-line strainer. We supply a version that is made of a clear, durable polycarbonate that features a convenient mounting flange. Part# is 163000.
  • Thoroughly clean the bowl rim and clean/replace all existing supply lines to the toilet.
  • Finally, we attack the odor from its source. We recommend installing our Knock Out odors kit (part# KO2). This product will introduce a bacteria into the intake water line that will prevent the growth of the bacteria that cause the rotten egg smell. It will not only eliminate the growth of bad bacteria but it will also clean the head as well.

Holding Tank- If the odor you are experiencing smells more like waste rather than rotten eggs, the odor is likely coming from your holding tank. You will find several items on the market that will work to cover up this odor (e.g. formaldehyde based chemicals, vent filters, etc…). Raritan recommends our Kills Odor product (K.O.) which works to eliminate the odor at its source. K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digests liquids, solid waste and paper, totally emulsifying them so there’s no need to add "tissue digesters" or other "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. neutralize the odor-causing elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an odor-free product. Four ounces per 25 gallons of capacity is all you need, and there’s seldom any need to add K.O. between pump-outs; or need to pump out until the tank is full, making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.

Sanitation Hose-Poor quality and/or improperly routed sanitation hose will eventually permeate your sanitation hose. The only solution for permeated hose is replacement. If you suspect your hose may be permeated, wet a rag as hot as possible and wrap it around the suspect hose. After it cools, remove and smell the rag. If the odor has transferred to the rag, the hose is permeated and replacement is necessary. Raritan offers our Saniflex sanitation line which is made with a butyl rubber to resist permeation and is backed with a 5 year warranty. Its flexibility is unmatched in the market place and heating of the hose to install fittings is not necessary. Part number is SFH for 1.5" and SFH1 for 1" I.D. hose.

Note: it is always recommended to route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90 degree fittings to make bends if needed. Avoid any dips and sags in the lines so waste cannot settle and collect and cause premature failure of your sanitation line. Any loops in the hose must also be properly vented.

7. What can I use to clean my toilet:

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

8. How do I winterize my toilet?

Refer to detail winterizing instructions in owner's manual.(http://raritaneng.app-x.info/pdf_files/Marine%20Elegance/L460v0610%20Marine%20Elegance%20Manual.pdf)

9. What discharge hose size do you recommend?

Our toilets are designed to perform well using either 1" or 1 ½" I.D. hose. We do however suggest 1 1/2" hose be used in salt water applications due to calcium deposition. A smaller diameter hose will obstruct more quickly in these conditions and adversely affect the performance of your toilet.

10. Do I need to cut the discharge fitting on my Vortex-Vac toilet?

No. The discharge fitting was designed to accept both 1" and 1 ½" I.D. discharge hoses. Modification for 1 ½" installations is not necessary and will not adversely affect performance.

11. The discharge fitting points downwards. Can I plumb this to go through the wall rather than down through the floor?

Yes. We offer two kits to redirect the discharge hose 90 degrees out the back. Part #221147 is for 1 ½" I.D. hose and 221148 is for 1" I.D. hose

12. What kind of full tank sensor can be used with the Marine Elegance Vortex Vac models?

Raritan manufactures two holding tank full tank sensors that can directly interface with this toilet:

1. Float type: This sensor can be installed in your tank cap. Part # STCFL
2. SensaTank: This sensor can be glued to the external side of a plastic or fiberglass tank less than 3/8" thick. Part# STCTSA

13. How do I double clamp the discharge fitting? Is it too short?

The earlier model Marine Elegance toilets had a shorter discharge fitting. Current discharge fitting, replacement part # 221145 will allow double clamps.


PHEII

1. The toilet flushes poorly or not at all. Why?

The most common cause to poor discharge is a clogged sanitation line. We recommend isolating the toilet from the plumbing system by connecting a separate piece of hose to the toilet discharge and flushing into a bucket. If the toilet flushes fine, you either have an obstruction in the sanitation line, Y-valve, vented loop, vent line or sea cock. If the toilet continues to perform poorly we recommend purchasing a full rebuild kit. There are three main components within this kit that work together to ensure quality flushing: 1232MS piston O-ring, 1228CW flapper valve and the C253 joker valve. All three of these parts work in unison to create the proper suction to flush the toilet. If any one of these wears, it can the cause pump to perform poorly.

2. Dirty water comes back in the bowl after a flush.

The most common cause of back flow is Joker Valve wear. Replacement Joker valve for all Atlantes except the Vortex-Vac is part# C254. Vortex-Vac models use two of part# 221135 (It is recommended both be replaced at the same time).

3. No water remains in the bowl after the cycle, why not?

Raritan toilets are not designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

If a vented loop is installed (inside or otherwise), check for clogged vent. A clogged vent will cause water to siphon out of the bowl giving the empty bowl appearance.

4. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common source of odor is almost never associated with the toilet itself. Odor is typically caused by one of three factors and can be distinguished by the smell itself (rotten egg versus waste):

Raw water: Toilets that use raw water often draw in varying forms of marine life and vegetation which become trapped in the bowl rim or lay stagnant in the incoming feed line. As these items decay, the result is sulfurous malodor – also known as the "rotten egg smell". One common solution, albeit the most expensive, is to convert the toilet to utilize your on-board pressurized fresh water supply. Raritan offers both complete new fresh water flushing toilets as well as conversion kits for existing raw water flushing heads. If converting is not practical, then we recommend the following:

  • Install and regularly maintain a good quality in-line strainer. We supply a version that is made of a clear, durable polycarbonate that features a convenient mounting flange. Part# is 163000.
  • Thoroughly clean the bowl rim and clean/replace all existing supply lines to the toilet.
  • Finally, we attack the odor from its source. We recommend installing our Knock Out odors kit (part# KO2). This product will introduce a bacteria into the intake water line that will prevent the growth of the bacteria that cause the rotten egg smell. It will not only eliminate the growth of bad bacteria but it will also clean the head as well.

Holding Tank- If the odor you are experiencing smells more like waste rather than rotten eggs, the odor is likely coming from your holding tank. You will find several items on the market that will work to cover up this odor (e.g. formaldehyde based chemicals, vent filters, etc…). Raritan recommends our Kills Odor product (K.O.) which works to eliminate the odor at its source. K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digests liquids, solid waste and paper, totally emulsifying them so there’s no need to add "tissue digesters" or other "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. neutralize the odor-causing elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an odor-free product. Four ounces per 25 gallons of capacity is all you need, and there’s seldom any need to add K.O. between pump-outs; or need to pump out until the tank is full, making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.

Sanitation Hose-Poor quality and/or improperly routed sanitation hose will eventually permeate your sanitation hose. The only solution for permeated hose is replacement. If you suspect your hose may be permeated, wet a rag as hot as possible and wrap it around the suspect hose. After it cools, remove and smell the rag. If the odor has transferred to the rag, the hose is permeated and replacement is necessary. Raritan offers our Saniflex sanitation line which is made with a butyl rubber to resist permeation and is backed with a 5 year warranty. Its flexibility is unmatched in the market place and heating of the hose to install fittings is not necessary. Part number is SFH for 1.5" and SFH1 for 1" I.D. hose.

Note: it is always recommended to route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90 degree fittings to make bends if needed. Avoid any dips and sags in the lines so waste cannot settle and collect and cause premature failure of your sanitation line. Any loops in the hose must also be properly vented.

5. What can I use to clean my toilet:

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

6. Why does the pump move and flex when it is pumped?

This is normal operation. The drive motor and the pump are not on the same centerline. Therefore the force vector is at an angle between the drive motor ant the center of the pump, causing some side movement. Under normal situations it poses no problem.

7. The toilet makes grinding and squealing sounds when it is running; what's wrong?

This was most common on the PHII/PHEII units that were manufactured before the cartridge seal pump series (1200C). In the early electric drive units, the drive arm squeaked against the pump housing regardless of how much grease was applied. The cure is to convert to the 1116BW drive arm kit - the material has been changed in the drive arm to one that is compatible with the material of the pump housing. In manual units, the most common source for squeaking is the bushing area just beneath the seal. As the piston rod pumps up and down, the rod squeaks against the bushing area. The cure for this is to put SuperLube on the piston shaft; we also recommend a TWK( Toilet Water Kit).

Another area for squeaking is when the bushing area wears and the corners of the piston scrape against the cylinder bore. Sometimes vegetable oil put into the toilet bowl will stop the squeak temporarily.

For a permanent cure, the pump housing must be updated to the 1200CW.

8. Which type of SuperLube is recommended for PHII units?

Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE) by Super Lube is recommended.

9. What tool or method is needed to remove the 1249 plug to clean out the base?

Insert (2) 1/4 bolts 180 degrees from each other into the 1249 plug. Use a file or screwdriver as leverage to remove the plug for leverage to unscrew.

10. How do I winterize my PHEII marine toilet?

Refer to winterizing instructions in owner's manual.(http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L04v1215PHIIPHEIIOM.pdf)


PHII and PHC

1. The toilet flushes poorly or not at all. The most common cause to poor discharge is a clogged sanitation line. We recommend isolating the toilet from the plumbing system by connecting a separate piece of hose to the toilet discharge and flushing into a bucket. If the toilet flushes fine, you either have an obstruction in the sanitation line, Y-valve, vented loop, vent line or sea cock.

If the toilet continues to perform poorly we recommend purchasing a full rebuild kit. There are three main components within this kit that work together to ensure quality flushing: 1232MS piston O-ring, 1228CW flapper valve and the C253 joker valve. All three of these parts work in unison to create the proper suction to flush the toilet. If any one of these wears, it can the cause pump to perform poorly.

2. Dirty water comes back in the bowl after a flush.

The most common cause of back flow is Joker Valve wear. Replace with part# C253

3. I wish to order a repair kit but don't know which one I need; how do I identify which one I need?

Units manufactured prior to 1981 are identified by a chromed shutoff valve handle on the front of the toilet pump; this is the PH series and uses repair kit #PHRK.

Units manufactured 1981 - June, 1992 are identified by a plastic on-off knob at the front of the toilet pump and a pump shaft seal held in place by a star washer-type snap ring. This is the original PHII series and uses repair kit #PHRKII.

The current series (6/92 - present) is identified by a cartridge-type pump shaft seal with a hex nut at the top of the pump housing where the piston shaft goes through. This unit uses repair kit #PHRKIIC.

4. No water remains in the bowl after a flush, why not?

Raritan toilets are not designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

If a vented loop is installed, check for clogged vent. A clogged vent will cause water to siphon out of the bowl.

5. The lever is very hard to push down. What’s wrong?

If the head pumps when in the flush position but is hard to pump when in dry mode, replace part# 1203W. This valve is designed to let air in while dry pumping. This valve is likely stuck in the closed position.

If the pump handle is hard to push in both modes, check for restriction in the discharge line or a clogged vent. This back pressure is the likely cause to hard pumping.

6. The pump squeaks when I pump it, what's wrong?

This was most common on the PHII/PHEII units that were manufactured before the cartridge seal pump series (1200C).

In the early electric drive units, the drive arm squeaked against the pump housing regardless of how much grease was applied. The cure is to convert to the 1116BW drive arm kit - the material has been changed in the drive arm to one that is compatible with the material of the pump housing. In manual units, the most common source for squeaking is the bushing area just beneath the seal. As the piston rod pumps up and down, the rod squeaks against the bushing area. The cure for this is to put SuperLube on the piston shaft; we also recommend a TWK.

Another area for squeaking is when the bushing area wears and the corners of the piston scrape against the cylinder bore. Sometimes vegetable oil put into the toilet bowl will stop the squeak temporarily. For a permanent cure, the pump housing must be updated to the 1200CW.

7. I've replaced my piston shaft seal and it still leaks, what is the problem

Usually the problem is a worn bushing area in the 1200B pump housing, which would necessitate replacing the pump housing with a 1200CW.

A possible lesser problem would be that the replacement seal wasn't installed correctly. It is installed with the flat side up, plastic washer on top of it and snap ring installed with curved surface down. Using the manual handle to install the snap ring, press it until it just contacts the white washer, then stop. Do not compress it as far as it will go.

8. The square nut in front of the pump body leaks; what is wrong and how do I fix it?

The square nut in front of the pump body is an air inlet valve that allows air into the top of the pump cylinder during dry flush operation to stop any Vacuum kick. Inside the square fitting is a check valve.

In units manufactured between 1981 and March, 1992, a small black joker valve was used; in units manufactured after March 1992; a more advanced valve is used. In either case, remove the fitting and rinse it with warm, clear water. Reassemble. If it still leaks, replace it (part # 1203W).

9. The intake valve handle is hard to turn; how do I make this easier to rotate?

Remove the round handle, unscrew the packing nut (1204B) and remove the intake valve body (1203B). Grease the three "O" rings with SuperLube or other PTFE based grease. Reassemble, referring to correct alignment of valve in the PHII owner's manual. If it continues being difficult to turn, replace the intake valve body (1203BW).

Note: older PHII series valve handles didn't have the two "wings" on the handle to aid in turning it. Customer may wish to purchase a new handle (1209BW).

10. I have an older model PH toilet (pre-1981); can I still get parts?

Some parts remain available but we recommend that the pump assembly be upgraded to the newer PHIIPUMP Current handle socket, fulcrum links, yoke, clevis pins, base, flapper, joker, bowl and seat are all interchangeable with the older series; gearboxes are not - Customer Service should be consulted when upgrading old PHE models to the newer PHEII models.

11. Can PHII be connected to a pressurized fresh water supply?

No. The PHII inlet as it is can only be connected to a non-pressurized water source such as sea cock. There is a conversion kit available to allow connection to your on board pressurized freshwater system. See Fresh Head and conversion # 2500RFK.

12. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common source of odor is almost never associated with the toilet itself. Odor is typically caused by one of three factors and can be distinguished by the smell itself (rotten egg versus waste):

Raw water: Toilets that use raw water often draw in varying forms of marine life and vegetation which become trapped in the bowl rim or lay stagnant in the incoming feed line. As these items decay, the result is sulfurous malodor – also known as the "rotten egg smell". One common solution, albeit the most expensive, is to convert the toilet to utilize your on-board pressurized fresh water supply. Raritan offers a complete new fresh water manual flushing toilet as well as conversion kits for existing Raritan PH and Compact heads. If converting is not practical, then we recommend the following::

  • Install and regularly maintain a good quality in-line strainer. We supply a version that is made of a clear, durable polycarbonate that features a convenient mounting flange. Part# is 163000.
  • Thoroughly clean the bowl rim and clean/replace all existing supply lines to the toilet.
  • Finally, we attack the odor from its source. We recommend installing our Knock Out odors kit (part# KO2). This product will introduce a bacteria into the intake water line that will prevent the growth of the bacteria that cause the rotten egg smell. It will not only eliminate the growth of bad bacteria but it will also clean the head as well.

Holding Tank- If the odor you are experiencing smells more like waste rather than rotten eggs, the odor is likely coming from your holding tank. You will find several items on the market that will work to cover up this odor (e.g. formaldehyde based chemicals, vent filters, etc…). Raritan recommends our Kills Odor product (K.O.) which works to eliminate the odor at its source. K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digests liquids, solid waste and paper, totally emulsifying them so there’s no need to add "tissue digesters" or other "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. neutralize the odor-causing elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an odor-free product. Four ounces per 25 gallons of capacity is all you need, and there’s seldom any need to add K.O. between pump-outs; or need to pump out until the tank is full, making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.

Sanitation Hose-Poor quality and/or improperly routed sanitation hose will eventually permeate your sanitation hose. The only solution for permeated hose is replacement. If you suspect your hose may be permeated, wet a rag as hot as possible and wrap it around the suspect hose. After it cools, remove and smell the rag. If the odor has transferred to the rag, the hose is permeated and replacement is necessary. Raritan offers our Saniflex sanitation line which is made with a butyl rubber to resist permeation and is backed with a 5 year warranty. Its flexibility is unmatched in the market place and heating of the hose to install fittings is not necessary. Part number is SFH for 1.5" and SFH1 for 1" I.D. hose.

Note: it is always recommended to route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90 degree fittings to make bends if needed. Avoid any dips and sags in the lines so waste cannot settle and collect and cause premature failure of your sanitation line. Any loops in the hose must also be properly vented.

13. What can I use to clean my toilet?

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

14. How do I winterize my toilet?

Refer to detail winterizing instructions in owner's manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L04v1215PHIIPHEIIOM.pdf)

15. Which type of SuperLube is recommended for PHII units?

Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE) by Super Lube is recommended.

16. What tool or method is needed to remove the 1249 plug to clean out the base?

Insert (2) 1/4 bolts 180 degrees from each other into the 1249 plug. Use a file or screwdriver as leverage to remove the plug for leverage to unscrew.

17. If I buy a new PHII toilet, will the mounting bolt pattern be the same as my old PHII?

Yes all PH bases have same mounting bolt pattern.

18. Do you have step by step instructions for rebuilding a PHII pump with the repair kits available?

Various component instruction are available at repair shop http://raritaneng.com/tech-support/repair-shop/phii-and-pheii/

19. How do I winterize my PH II marine toilet?

Refer to winterizing instructions in owner's manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L04v1215PHIIPHEIIOM.pdf)

20. No water stands in the bowl, why not?

Raritan toilets are not by themselves designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. The higher the loop the more water will remain after each flush. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

Note: Vented loops may need to be installed higher for safety reasons (see installation manual for further details)

21. Which type of SuperLube is recommended for PHII units?

Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE) by Super Lube is recommended

22. What tool or method is needed to remove the 1249 plug to clean out the base?

We used (2) 1/4 x 20 screws and inserted them 180 degrees from each other. Two 1/4 bolts lying around will work just fine. We then used a file (or similar) for leverage to unscrew. Again, a screwdriver would work just as well.

23. Why is my PHII inlet valve difficult to turn, and how do I fix it?

Remove 1203BW and lubricate using SuperLube and reassemble. http://raritaneng.com/tech-support/repair-shop/phii-and-pheii/inlet-valvehandle-orientation-and-repair/

24. If I buy a new PHII toilet, will the mounting bolt pattern be the same as my old PHII?

Yes all PH bases have same mounting bolt pattern.

25. Do you have step by step instructions for rebuilding a PHII pump with the repair kits available?

Various component instruction are available at repair shop http://raritaneng.com/tech-support/repair-shop/phii-and-pheii/

26. Are photos available to assist PHII customers determine which repair kit they need?

You can identify your head here: http://raritaneng.app-x.info/tech-support/identify-your-head/

Continuous Duty Solenoid

1. What is the ampere rating of Raritan CDS** solenoid relays?

12 volt: (CDS12) 150 amp inrush, 80 amps continuous; 24 volt (CDS24) 50 amps inrush, 50 amps continuous; 32 volt (CDS32) 50 amps inrush, 50 amps continuous.


PURASAN/PST EX

1. Is the Purasan EX legal to use?

Yes and No. The Purasan EX waste treatment system is a U.S. Coast Guard certified Type I waste treatment system permitted on uninspected vessels less than 65 feet. They may be used in most navigable waterways with an in and out tidal flow within the 3 mile limit (9 miles in the Gulf of Mexico). There are areas however that are federally designated as No-Discharge Zones (NDZ’s) and its use is not permitted. Please see the EPA’s website for no discharge zones for a state by state listing.

2. What is the difference between the Purasan EX and the Electroscan?

The Purasan EX uses a Halogen chemical solution dispensed through a remote dispenser for disinfection. Special tablets must be replenished as needed and an onboard pressurized system is required to fill the dispenser during each treatment cycle (about 8 ounces per cycle). Amp draw at nominal 12VDC is 10 amps.

The Electroscan disinfects waste by converting salt water into a powerful bactericide. No tablets are needed but salt is required to make this system function properly. If adequate salt water is not available (e.g. brackish or freshwater applications), salt feed systems may be added to the system.

While the Purasan is typically used in freshwater application and the Electroscan in salt water applications, either system can be used in each application.

3. What is the power requirement for the Purasan EX?

Approximately .4 amp/hour per cycle.

4. How do I winterize my Purasan Ex?

Refer to winterizing instructions in owner's manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L518Av1115PSTEXvP70vOM.pdf)

5. Can you run a PSTEX with an electrical transformer? Can you add a toilet also?

Purasan EX 12V will work with RTME transformer. Separate transformers are needed for PSTEX and toilet. Same transformer cannot be used for both. If PSTEX is used with "hold and treat "addition consideration are required to power drawn by transfer macerator pump. Please contact with Raritan tech support.

6. How many flushes / cycles per tablet do you get using a Purasan waste treatment system?

Typically each tablet lasts for 50 cycles , but many factors such as water level in tablet dispenser can increase or decrease usage.

Purasan cartridge in older Purasan can lasts for 300 cycles on average.

7. Can Purasan EX be used with raw water inlet from thru-hull?

Demo Content


SeaEra

1. The toilet flushes poorly or not at all.

The most common cause to poor discharge is a clogged sanitation line. We recommend isolating the toilet from the plumbing system by connecting a separate piece of hose to the toilet discharge and flushing into a bucket. If the toilet flushes fine, you either have an obstruction in the sanitation line, Y-valve, vented loop, vent line or sea cock. If the toilet continues to perform poorly, refer to the owners guide for further troubleshooting.

2. Dirty water comes back in the bowl after a flush.

The most common cause of back flow is Joker Valve wear. Replacement Joker valve is part# C254.

3. My toilet overflows with sea water when I run at high speeds? How do I correct this situation?

One of the most common issues relates to the type of scoop on your thru hull. If the scoop is oriented to "cup" the water when the boat is in motion, the water will do as you describe. Reversing this scoop will take care of this problem.

4. No water stands in the bowl after the cycle, why not?

Raritan toilets are not designed to hold water unless a vented loop is installed in the discharge line with the top of the loop generally 4 inches higher than the top of the bowl. See the specific toilets installation manual for specifications and loop height limitations.

If a vented loop is installed, check for clogged vent. A clogged vent will cause water to siphon out of the bowl.

5. Do I need to cut 1" portion of the discharge if using 1 ½" hose?

No. The discharge fitting was designed to accept both 1" and 1 ½" I.D. discharge hoses. Modification for 1 ½" installations is not necessary and will not adversely affect performance.

6. My toilet works but smells, what's wrong with it and how do I get rid of the odors?

The most common source of odor is almost never associated with the toilet itself. Odor is typically caused by one of three factors and can be distinguished by the smell itself (rotten egg versus waste):

Raw water: Toilets that use raw water often draw in varying forms of marine life and vegetation which become trapped in the bowl rim or lay stagnant in the incoming feed line. As these items decay, the result is sulfurous malodor – also known as the "rotten egg smell". One common solution, albeit the most expensive, is to convert the toilet to utilize your on-board pressurized fresh water supply. Raritan offers both complete new fresh water flushing toilets as well as conversion kits for existing raw water flushing heads. If converting is not practical, then we recommend the following:

  • Install and regularly maintain a good quality in-line strainer. We supply a version that is made of a clear, durable polycarbonate that features a convenient mounting flange. Part# is 163000.
  • Thoroughly clean the bowl rim and clean/replace all existing supply lines to the toilet.
  • Finally, we attack the odor from its source. We recommend installing our Knock Out odors kit (part# KO2). This product will introduce a bacteria into the intake water line that will prevent the growth of the bacteria that cause the rotten egg smell. It will not only eliminate the growth of bad bacteria but it will also clean the head as well.

Holding Tank- If the odor you are experiencing smells more like waste rather than rotten eggs, the odor is likely coming from your holding tank. You will find several items on the market that will work to cover up this odor (e.g. formaldehyde based chemicals, vent filters, etc…). Raritan recommends our Kills Odor product (K.O.) which works to eliminate the odor at its source. K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digests liquids, solid waste and paper, totally emulsifying them so there’s no need to add "tissue digesters" or other "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. neutralize the odor-causing elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an odor-free product. Four ounces per 25 gallons of capacity is all you need, and there’s seldom any need to add K.O. between pump-outs; or need to pump out until the tank is full, making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.

Sanitation Hose-Poor quality and/or improperly routed sanitation hose will eventually permeate your sanitation hose. The only solution for permeated hose is replacement. If you suspect your hose may be permeated, wet a rag as hot as possible and wrap it around the suspect hose. After it cools, remove and smell the rag. If the odor has transferred to the rag, the hose is permeated and replacement is necessary. Raritan offers our Saniflex sanitation line which is made with a butyl rubber to resist permeation and is backed with a 5 year warranty. Its flexibility is unmatched in the market place and heating of the hose to install fittings is not necessary. Part number is SFH for 1.5" and SFH1 for 1" I.D. hose.

Note: it is always recommended to route hoses to gravitate downhill and use sweep ells rather than 90 degree fittings to make bends if needed. Avoid any dips and sags in the lines so waste cannot settle and collect and cause premature failure of your sanitation line. Any loops in the hose must also be properly vented.

7. What can I use to clean my toilet:

Raritan only recommends our Cleans Potties product (part# 1PCP22) C.P. was the first bowl cleaner of its kind to combine a specialized strain of bacteria with 100% biodegradable cleaning agent. This bio active formula effectively breaks down waste while also leaving the toilet fresh and clean. Other market cleaners may contain pine oil, formaldehyde, chlorine, phosphoric acid or other solvent or petroleum based products that can damage plastic and rubber parts within the head.

8. How do I winterize my toilet?

Refer to detail winterizing instructions in owner's manual.(http://raritaneng.app-x.info/pdf_files/sea_era/L318seaerav0103.pdf)

9. What discharge hose size do you recommend?

Our toilets are designed to perform well using either 1" or 1 ½" I.D. hose. We do however suggest 1 1/2" hose be used in salt water applications due to calcium deposition. A smaller diameter hose will obstruct more quickly in these conditions and adversely affect the performance of your toilet.

10. Can I purchase a SeaEra with a 1" 90 degree discharge fitting?

No. We recommend purchasing an inline 1 ½" to 1" barbed nipple through a local plumbing supply outfit.

Saniflex Hose

1. Can SaniFlex hose be used with a Vacuum toilets?

Yes SaniFlex has a rating of 13PSIG.

2. Can I use antifreeze with SaniFlex without any adverse effect?

Yes. Antifreeze using ethylene glycol or propylene glycol may be used to winterize systems with SaniFlex hose

3. Can C.H. (clean hose) be used to clean SaniFlex

Yes. C.H. can be used with SaniFlex.


Vented Loop

1. Water comes out from vent of my vented loop? What should I do?

Vent from vented loop (1 1/2") should be vented outside. Also vent should be vented higher than the loop. Vented loop supplied by Previous Raritan vented loops did not have check valve (duckbill valve) in the vent. If vent does not have check valve then vent need to be vented outside. For all TrueDesign vented loops, replace or clean check valve to stop leak.

2. How high do I mount my vented loop above the waterline?

The top of the vented loop must be a minimum of 4" (10cm) above the waterline at the boats greatest angle of heel.


Vented Loop with Solenoid

1. Can I install a vented loop in intake hose for toilet?

Intake hose vent should be closed when toilet intake pump is creating suction to bring water in.

A vented loop with solenoid allows vented loop to be used in intake line.

Hold N’ Treat

1. Can I use existing holding tank to convert to hold and treat?

Raritan has system component to use existing holding tank, macerator pump to build a hold and treat system.

2. Can I treat waste first and store in holding tank to discharge later?

Treated waste from electroscan and Purasan if stored in a holding tank can grow coliform again and hence does not meet USCG requirement. Holding waste first and treating at the time of the discharge in only USCG approved system.

Semi-custom Holding Tanks and Water Tanks

1. How many fittings can I get on my custom tank?

You may specify the location, as well as the number of tank fittings, vents and clean-out.


Raw Water Strainers

1. How do I winterize the Raw Water Strainer?

See RWS instructions manual for more detail.

2. What size are the inlet and outlet of the Raritan Raw Water Strainer?

The inlet and outlet are nominal 1 1/2" female pipe threads. Adapters are available to reduce the fittings to other standard size plumbing fittings. Use plastic fittings only; metal fittings have different expansion and contraction rates, which can cause cracking of the plastic.


Tank Monitor

1. Can I use the system to monitor my fuel and water tanks levels?

The system can only monitor water and waste water tanks, not fuel tank.


Exchange Program

What is an Exchange Program?

Raritan has had an exchange program for the Crown Head and Crown Head II for many years.

Raritan does not currently offer exchange for other toilets.

Remanufactured pump and motor units, commonly called Lower Base Assemblies (LBA's) are sold with a new product warranty, taking the customer's older unit in trade. These are shipped to the customer and a core charge is assessed until the older unit is received back at Raritan, whereupon the core charge is returned to the customer, or a credit is issued to his credit card company.

Order part # XCM** for the Crown Head, and XC2M** for the Crown Head II.

(Note ** enter necessary DC voltage for the head; example XCM12 is a 12 volt Crown Head


Repair

Where do I send product for repair?

Repair Service Information:

Be Sure To Read the Entire Section

Raritan maintains two full repair and overhaul facilities in Millville, New Jersey and, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.

Shipping addresses are as follows:
New Jersey Facility
Raritan Engineering Company, Inc.
(Main Office and Headquarters)
530 Orange Street
Millville, NJ 08332
Ph. # (856) 825-4900
Fax# (856) 825-4409
Attention: Service and Repair

Most returns may be via UPS or other parcel service. All sanitation equipment must be rinsed and cleaned before shipping. Note that packaging and selection of delivery service is the responsibility of the shipper. Raritan assumes no responsibility for shipping damage on incoming materials. Be sure to include your name and return address in the package, along with a daytime telephone number and instructions on what is to be done with the unit. Also include a brief description of any problem you may be having with the product. Both Raritan locations are in the Eastern Time Zone.


Water Heaters

1. What is the heat exchanger; how does it work?

The heat exchanger is a coil inside the tank through which a portion of your engine's coolant is circulated, enabling you to have hot water while away from the dock without having to turn on your genset.

2. The pressure relief valve on my water heater keeps dripping. What is wrong?

The pressure relief valves used in Raritan water heaters are set for 75 PSI or 210° F. If water temperature or pressure inside the tank exceeds these limits, the valve will unseat.

If engine coolant is being used in a Raritan water heater with heat exchanger, some of the engine coolant may have to be diverted via a bypass valve, to insure that the water in the tank does not exceed the limits of the pressure relief valve.

If there is a check valve installed din inlet to water heater and all hot water faucets are closed during the heating cycle, there is a thermal expansion of water. This expansion builds high pressure in the tank causing drip in T&P valve. Remove check valve and use plumbing according to the manual. Raritan supplies the water heater with a 75 psi T&P valve, if your water pressure system can safely operate at higher pressures, a higher rated T&P valve may be installed.

3. How do I winterize my water heater?

Refer to winterizing instructions in owner's manual. (http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/L206V0911v1700WaterHeaterOM.pdf)

4. What is the recovery rate of a Raritan 1700 series water heater using AC power (heating element)?

In one hour, 13 gallons U.S (49.2 Liter) of water will be heated approximately 40° F (22° C).

5. Where is the anode on the heater and how do I remove the anode without damaging the threads?

Please refer to the following instructions: Raritan-Water-Heaters-Anode (http://raritaneng.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Raritan-Water-Heaters-Anode.png)

6. The hot water coming out of my hot water heater smells like sulfur. Why and how do I get rid of it?

The most common cause of "smelly water" is a non-toxic sulfate reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Divibrio Sulfurcans. This bacteria often enter the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate (SO4) to hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas you smell in the water. Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water. Occasionally this bacteria can be accompanied by black deposits, the result of pipe and fitting corrosion. In extremely high concentrations, hydrogen sulfide gas can be toxic though the gas is detectable long before harmful levels are reached.

The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are: a) an elevated level of sulfur in the water, b) activated hydrogen from cathodic reactions within the tank, c) water with little or no dissolved oxygen, d) and temperatures below 138°F. Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are: a) water softeners, b) well water, c) and long periods of no water movement.

Other factors that may contribute to smelly water:

  • Chlorides of Magnesium and Calcium leave a bitter taste.
  • Chloride of Sodium produces a salty taste.
  • Sulfates (50 ppm) gives a medicinal taste.
  • Carbon Dioxide in a low pH water gives fizzy water.
  • Iron and tannic waters also give a bad taste and odor.

The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from re-infecting another part. Longer lasting solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.


Sections: Technical Support